Features

A Hair-Raising Experience

Remodeled hair styling packages are shaking up the shelves in an effort to attract consumers.

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By: Jamie Matusow

Editor-in-Chief

Consumers shopping for hair styling products may do a double take at supermarket shelves. Not only have many favorite products undergone complete makeovers, but where they are located on store shelves is new too. Procter & Gamble, in particular, has decided to stock its new Physique line in display cases to increase brand recognition, boost multi-unit purchases and make it easier for consumers to find products, according to the company.

No stranger to the hair care business, P&G brands including Pantene and Vidal Sassoon achieved $87.8 million in hair spray and spritz sales last year, making the company the No. 3 player in the category. The company’s styling gel and mousse products came in fourth place with $51 million in sales last year, according to Information Resources Inc. (IRI), Chicago, IL.

Two of P&G’s brands, Vidal Sassoon and Pantene, will unveil complete package makeovers in September, with two very different designs from their traditional packages. Vidal Sassoon’s designs originally came out of its UK office.

Vidal Sassoon specialty items (left) are packaged differently from other styling products in the line (right) to emphasize their distinctions.

“It was an attempt to get back to the roots of Sassoon, which is very geometric, functional and aesthetically pleasing,” said Ravi Saggar, global products developer, Vidal Sassoon. “What defines Vidal Sassoon are simple geometric characteristics—it’s very straight forward. We have maintained this simplicity throughout the new artwork.”

Vidal Sassoon, of course, consulted its stylists for suggestions. In terms of functionality, spray clogging and unwanted dispensing while traveling were major problems for consumers. So P&G has introduced a novel Sequist Perfect Dispensing click cap.

“The hair spray has no overcap; the top twists and clicks when opened or closed. It lets consumers know the on/off position and it prevents air from getting into the dispenser and clogging the spray,” said Mr. Saggar.

For the Polishing Drops, stylists pointed out that the product should not be poured, but rather dispensed in small amounts. Consequently, the dispenser pumps out a few drops with each application. “The packaging is designed to help consumers know how much of a product should be used,” said Maria Burquest, personal relations manager, Vidal Sassoon, P&G.

In addition to functionality, P&G redesigned its outer package. Vidal Sassoon’s new styling products are packaged in darker gray and black colors. Vidal Sassoon’s specialty items, however, come in brightly-colored smaller packages. For example, Shine Spray comes in a brushed gold aluminum can.

“Since the main portion of the line is subdued, the specialty items really pop out at you,” said Mr. Saggar.
The Polishing Drops and Strengthening Complex are packaged in frosted glass, a common material used for specialty styling products. Many items, such as Vidal Sassoon’s clarifying hair wash, are packaged in PET bottles to improve resilience, barrier properties and clarity. According to Mr. Saggar, tubs are making a comeback. A decade ago tubs were used for facial products. Now they hold hair waxers and pomades such as V.S. Defining Wax.
The brand’s logo is foil stamped on the outside of every product. Although foil stamping can be more expensive than other labeling methods, Mr. Saggar said it makes the products aesthetically pleasing.
“Sassoon is about style and we wanted to get back to that concept. We are known for it, but the products did not represent that before,” explained Mr. Saggar. Vidal Sassoon’s new look is showcased in a stand-alone display case. The display case was tested in Colorado Springs, CO, where consumers preferred having all the products in one place.

In other P&G packaging news this month, Pantene has introduced a collection of hair care products based on the consumer’s desired end look: volumizing, smoothing, curls, color care or basic care. Each regimen offers a shampoo, conditioner, gel and other regimen-specific SKUs at retail prices ranging from $4-7. The products will be packaged in the same pearl white color to maintain the Pantene heritage, while highlighting the unique benefits of the new formulas with regimen-specific colors.

“Pantene is trying to send both a functional message and an image message to consumers,” said Emily Kokenge, associate director of global beauty care design, Pantene. “It has such a great brand image, but the packages were not living up to it. This radical upgrade makes the bottles as sophisticated as the brand.”
Pantene bottles reinforce the new regimented design of the brand to help consumers find the products that they need easily. Pantene created one collection look to span the entire brand with a variety of offerings. “It is not so much a mish-mash anymore,” noted Ms. Kokenge.

 

For example, shampoos in the five regimens are similar in package design, but differ in color delineation and function. The new design also emphasizes the Pro-V ingredient because the company recognizes Pro-V as special and distinctive to Pantene, according to Ms. Kokenge. Much like fashion houses and perfume houses, Pantene has added a monogrammed “Pro-V” to the top of shampoo and conditioner caps to achieve this.

“Consumers are attracted to lovely silhouettes and proportions that are complemented with nice detailing, which is important in beauty care products,” said Ms. Kokenge. “The bottles are both attractive and draw consumers to the shelf. For example, the regimen-specific colored rings on shampoo caps reinforce the visioning created by the embossed ‘Pro-V.’”

In addition, the new letter-formed pattern surrounding the words ‘Pantene Pro-V’ on the front of the bottles are described by Ms. Kokenge as unexpected beauty care imagery. And as with Vidal Sassoon, Pantene is introducing locking and unlocking non-aerosol sprays nozzles. This prevents unwanted dispensing and keeps the actuator free from clogging. P&G introduced this dispensing technology in January with Physique.

a little guidance
The L’Oréal Studio line is undergoing a phase-by-phase package revamping in an effort to make seeking and purchasing products a pleasant experience for consumers. The main push behind the shift was to add “hold level guides” on the back panels of each package.

“The hold level guides—mega, extra strong, strong or extra control—make it easier for the consumer to decide which level of hold is right for him or her,” said a L’Oréal spokeswoman.
And while sharing room on the shelf with its competitors, L’Oréal Studio wants to be noticed in its newer white package.

John Paul Mitchell Systems’ Modern Elixirs is launching an eggplant-colored Styling Crème tube.

“The front of each package features cleaner graphics and a larger brand name to make it easier to differentiate on the shelf,” said the spokeswoman. L’Oréal Studio’s most popular types of aerosols, sprays and pumps allow for a finer mist, such as in L’Oréal Studio Line Mega Spritz or Mighty Mist.

“They are easy to use and offer hold without weighing hair down,” explained a L’Oréal spokeswoman.
Last fall, L’Oréal introduced L’Oréal Studio Line FX—three new cutting edge products—Fresh Styling Water, Melting Gel and Liquid Gel—with crystal clear, FX extra-flexible formulas. The products were designed to shape hair without stiffness or stickiness. The bottles are transparent to highlight the clear formulas and enhance the line’s non-residue look along with a decorative silver trim.

“The clear packaging communicates the lightness and flexibility of the product, and the upscale silver color conveys its advanced technology,” said the L’Oréal spokeswoman. “Customers are looking for clear packaging so they can see the product and clean graphics so they can better differentiate the product benefits of each SKU.”

an eastern feel
On the professional front, many salon brands are changing their looks. Modern Elixirs, launched in June 1998 by John Paul Mitchell, has brought a Zen-like feel to the shelf with its brushed aluminum, clear bottles, hot-stamped silver labels and olive-colored tubes. “Modern Elixirs has an eastern influence as far as its simplicity, balance and Japanese Toyo colors,” said Nanette Bercu, creative director of John Paul Mitchell Systems. “It is easy on the eye—where Zen meets botanical.”

In September, Modern Elixirs will launch Styling Crème in an eggplant-colored tube to help it branch out in new directions. “The eggplant color introduces a new medium in the styling hold product category for Modern Elixirs,” said Ms. Bercu. “Secondly, it adds a bit of color to the line beside the clear and silver bottles. It really adds a spark and richness to the line.”

Ms. Bercu insisted botanical products are more simplistic and Zen-like, portraying their values through packaging components. “Basic and simplistic packaging will always be an influential factor in the market,” said Ms. Bercu. “Bright colors come and go, but bottles are essentially based on the audience. Our customers are attracted to botanical-based products.”

These days, younger consumers are attracted to bright colors and edgy graphics. But things were not always this way, according to Ms. Bercu. Ten years ago, packaging was more general than the segmented market today. For example, Bed Head hair styling gel is aimed at the narrow Generation Y consumer base. A decade ago, traditional hair spray was marketed for everybody.

“There are so many products out there that target relevant user markets,” noted Ms. Bercu.
Modern Elixirs is not the only line John Paul Mitchell has recently revamped. The John Paul Mitchell Systems line has undergone enormous changes. The entire line has been repackaged as a tribute to the new millennium. The facelift replaces JPS’ vertical identification, which was a major part of the brand’s identity, with horizontal lettering.

Sebastian’s Collection has a new look and formulations to redefine the story of the line.

“To make it more legible to consumers, the screen was turned horizontal with a matte finish on the bottles,” explained Ms. Bercu. “But the black and white color scheme remains the same as well as the color categories (cleanse, condition, style and finish).”
The JPS bottle caps also changed from quarter turns to flip-tops caps. All of these packaging changes are designed to appeal to JPMS’ wide audience that includes baby boomers all the way down to Generation Y.

it’s storytime
If you’ve got a story, tell it. Telling a story is Sebastian International’s No. 1 priority when developing its packaging, according to Robert Galbraight, senior director of packaging ads.
“Though the general look of a line, such as graphics, is important, companies should try to have a good story on a can,” said Mr. Galbraight.

Stories should elaborate on the product’s uses, benefits and advantages in a limited amount of space. But at the same time, consumers can become saturated with too much information.
“They should have as much language on the product as possible. But the smaller the SKU, the harder it is to tell a story,” added Mr. Galbraight.

Apparently, Sebastian knows how to tell a story. According to Information Resources Inc. (IRI), Sebastian International’s sales rose 43.9% in the past year. The company’s new packaging debuted in May with the Sebastian Collection, a merge between the old Sebastian Collectives line, new formulations and six new products. According to comapny executives, styling product sales since May have increased 50%.

Sebastian has 16 SKUs in its Sebastian Collection, including four shampoos, four conditioners and eight styling products. The Sebastian Collection features alabaster bottles and muted platinum tops. The new aerosols also have different shapes with crisp-cornered tops. Valves have been changed on other Sebastian products, such as a spray-foam for Precision. Mr. Galbraight said he noticed cans and bottles are now manufactured with more indents for better wet-grip handling. Polyethylene (PET) is also the most standard material used for hair products with soft touch and satin finish labels.

focus and execute
Redken has been busy. During the past year, the company launched Rewind, a styling paste in a polypropylene (PP) jar package; Traction, a non-aerosol texturizing spray in a PET custom mold and Airtight, a 55% VOC aerosol. This follows Redken’s recent approach to styling product introductions.
“Redken’s strategy is to focus on key individual product launches rather than sub-branded lines,” said Shelley Saville, senior vice president, U.S. marketing, Redken.

Apparently, this strategy is working. Redken’s styling sales have increased 47% this year, according to company executives. Back in 1997, Redken introduced a new color scheme for its styling products: off-white pearl. Since then, all new styling packages have conformed to the same color.

“We try not to standardize our styling packaging beyond the color and graphics—each product has a unique texture and usage which demands a particular set of packaging components,” explained Ms. Saville.
Redken executives have found the most popular aerosols to be spray foams, which have replaced much of the traditional mousse business. Spray foams allow more precise and clean “hands free” application, according to Ms. Saville. Redken’s non-aerosol styling products feature soft-touch actuators. This system improves the user’s product use experience, since it’s easier on the hands, she said.

But as for packaging looks, consumers have stuck to the same preferences recently. Redken executives said stylists and consumers still prefer more neutral colors with strong graphic treatment for styling products. Blues and greens are the exceptions—these colors have staying power no matter what the trend.
“Consumers are also attracted to ergonomic packages that are easy to handle and travel well,” said Ms. Saville. “We’re seeing a lot of curvature and ergonomic focus. In addition, consumers seem to prefer graphics that are bold, simple and easy to read.” These preferences were not always the norm. The changes have primarily been driven by demographic shifts, according to the company.

“For example, Asian consumers tend to have smaller hands and prefer slim packages and effortless dispensing systems. When we design our packaging for Redken styling, we take into consideration the preferences of all our potential consumers, worldwide,” said Ms. Saville. Another major influence on package creation is industrial design. Recently, that has reflected curved profiles and no-waste designs, such as the Chrysler PT Cruiser.

complementing color
Color coordination is important both in the fashion industry and on the shelf. Clairol Professional recently introduced Basic White Violet Crème Whitener to its Basic White family in a violet-on-white tube. The violet formula offsets unwanted gold and brassy tones while essential conditioners moisturize during the lightening process. The kit contains a 2-oz. aluminum tube (CCL Container) and two paper laminate packettes.

Rewind, one of Redken’s newest launches, preserves the off-white identity of the brand.

“Fresh, simple graphics on existing components already in the brand family allowed for quickness to market,” said Kimberly Derorosis, director of package development, Clairol Professional. “The graphics for all of the components, including the SBS carton, are a fresh, clean violet on white which complements the drabbing crème product inside the tube.”

Another trend that is steadily catching on in the hair care category is larger size, the bigger the better.
“Many line extensions in the professional products division arena this year have consisted of increased sizes due to demand,” said Ms. Derorosis. “Basic White has launched a 1.75lbs. SKU and Kaliedocolors has added a 1lbs. SKU, complementing its 8-oz. SKU.”

Color coordination in terms of telling the story is just as important. Clairol Professional’s Beautiful Collection Permanent hair color is the company’s latest addition to the ethnic category. This gentle, low-ammonia permanent haircolor was developed for relaxed gray hair. It is available in eight shades.
“The rich bronze aluminum tube and SBS carton help to convey the color story of the new product,” explained Ms. Derorosis.

As for other trends in the hair market, Ms. Derorosis predicted tubes will become increasingly popular. And in terms of professional products, the trend in packaging design is for simpler, cleaner graphics with bolder colors, she said. Mass brand Salon Selectives decided to take the clear-tinted bottle route with clear graphics and names such as Sit Still finishing spray.

So whether it’s changing a display case or using new materials or color schemes to grab the consumer’s attention, hair styling sales are trying to win the upper hand with consumers. Modern designs and catchy shapes can’t hurt one bit.

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